ROYAL PAULOWNIA EMPRESS TREE

Growing Instructions :

1 Place the empress tree seeds in the refrigerator for two weeks at a temperature of 39 degrees Fahrenheit. This speeds up germination. You can store these seeds for up to a year in the refrigerator.

2 Sow empress tree seeds thinly in a pot containing moist standard potting compost. The seeds require light exposure to germinate and will remain dormant if they are buried. Place the pot in a sunny location outdoors and keep the soil moist at all times. The seeds will germinate within 10 to 30 days at a temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit.

3 Keep the seedlings in bright sunlight as they develop. Repot them into individual pots as soon as they are large enough to handle. Fertilize repotted seedlings with liquid fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.

4 Harden off empress tree seedlings outdoors once they are eight to 12 weeks old. Use a sheltered, frost-free spot. 

5 Plant the empress tree seedlings on bare soil with no shade, preferably on a south-facing slope. Leave at least 4 feet between seedlings so that the growing plants do not shade each other. The seedlings will grow slowly during the first year, as all their energy goes into root development.

More Detail Instructions

No matter what climate you are in, do NOT place your fertilizer in your pot over winter. Instead, save your fertilizer for the springtime. Plant your tree after the last frost or when surrounding plants begin to bud out.

Watering

DO NOT OVER-WATER your Empress Tree . When the top 2 to 3 inches of the potting medium is dry, add water. Do not allow soil to stay soggy. Empress trees will not tolerate over watering when potted. As a rule, let the soil surrounding the plant dry out before watering. If your tree is wet upon arrival, skip the initial watering for two days. Do not let the roots stay saturated when potted. Drooping branches and shriveled, brown leaves are signs of both under and over watering. If under-watered, the leaves will become dry and brittle. If over-watered, the leaves will become black and begin to shrink. They will be soft, not brittle. If this happens, stop watering your tree until it revives. If too much damage has been done, it will grow a new trunk from the base and grow a new tree.

Planting Instructions

Dig up an area 1 to 3 feet deep and at least 1 to 3 feet in diameter. This will loosen the soil and remove grass. Grass will compete with your tree for the surrounding soil’s nutrients. For best results, mix in potting soil or soil conditioner, especially if planting in clay or poor soil.

After digging your hole, place the tree in the hole and spread the roots out evenly. Surround them with dirt so that no air pockets are present. You can gently press down on the dirt to remove any cavities. Water immediately after planting to get rid of any other air pockets.

In addition, you want to plant your tree so that the “root collar” is level with the ground (see Fig. 2). (The “root collar” is the height where the roots effectively become the stem of the tree. It is commonly seen as a line that is lighter bark on top, darker roots on bottom. This is the line where the soil initially came to when your seedling was grown.)

We recommend planting your new Empress Tree(s) at least 3 feet from sidewalks. Also, avoid planting your new tree(s) over septic systems. You need to plant at least 10 feet from building structures. Be sure to select a sunny area with free draining soil. Your new Empress tree(s) will not thrive in a spot that holds excess water. Avoid areas that stay soggy after heavy rains.

Important Summer Information:

If you are experiencing severe drought, avoid planting your tree(s) in the ground. It is suggested that you plant your tree in a 3-5 gallon, light-colored pot in the shade. Once the temperature drops or the drought breaks, you can transplant your tree to the area of your lawn that you want.

Spring Pruning:

Let your tree grow for one entire year. If your empress tree did not grow at least 4 feet before winter dormancy, we recommend that you cut it to the ground at the very start of spring (a process called coppicing). This may seem odd, but it will grow a very straight, beautiful tree. Your tree(s) will more than make up for the lost growth in the first few weeks. We have seen some Empress Trees grow as many as 20 feet in the first year after being cut back to the ground.

Don’t worry about being exact. This process (coppicing) can be done any time of year, though we recommend spring. The new stump will have several trunks coming up from it. Select the largest trunk and pinch the others off. This one will grow at a very rapid rate and will grow into a very straight tree.

Fertilizer:

Empress Trees love fertilizer. Organic fertilizer high in nitrogen works well. You can use Miracle Gro or a balanced tree fertilizer. You can fertilize twice a month in the growing season. Stop fertilizing before the tree goes back into dormancy. Additional fertilizing should only be done after the first year.

Weed Control:

Keep weeds and grass two to three feet away from the tree in the first year. Pull the weeds initially, and then you can use a growing mat or mulch. Do not spray Roundup® on a young tree, and be careful that wind does not blow chemical drift on the tree. During the first year, weeds and grass rob moisture away from young trees and can cut their growth rate in half.

Deer:

The Royal Empress Tree is not a desired food for deer. However, if nothing more appetizing is available, they have been known to eat the growth bud at the top of the stem. If you think this may be a problem, sprinkle some Deer Away® on the top of the tree until it grows 6 feet tall (beyond the reach of the deer).

Branch Pruning:

Large leaves grow in pairs up the tree (one on each side). Every few inches up the tree, you will see a new set. These should be left on the tree to maximize photosynthesis. These leaves will fall off later. Above each leaf on the tree’s stem, you will see a little bud growing. This is referred to as a “sucker.” It is a permanent branch trying to grow. Pinch these off until you get to the height where you want your first branches to grow. The higher you let your branches start, the higher your clearance will be under the branches (see Fig. 3).

Flowering Trees:

You should start seeing flowers blooming within the first or second year. You will see buds on the tree through the winter. Flowers will bloom at the very beginning of spring.

Insects and Disease:

The best defense is a healthy tree. Empress Trees are very hardy. Good soil, proper feeding, and correct watering are the keys to its prosperity. If worms bite holes in the leaves, you can sprinkle Sevin-10 Dust® on them. These little bites do not affect the tree since it is growing at such a fast rate and putting on so many new leaves.

Pets:

The tree is not poisonous. In fact, its leaves are fed to livestock as a high protein fodder.

Winter Dormancy:

During late fall and winter, your tree will go dormant. The leaves will fall off and the stem will turn brown. Nothing will be happening above ground, but the roots will continue to grow below, especially during nice days. This winter root growth will help accelerate growth when spring comes.

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