English Lavender

 English Lavender Vera, Lavandula Angustifolia

Lavender Vera is thought to be the true English Lavender. Also called True Lavender or Fine Lavender, it is thought to be the best Lavender for medicinal and aromatherapy purposes. This evergreen is a staple plant for the herb garden, the fragrant flowers have been used in perfumes, poultices and potpourris for centuries.
It is an excellent plant for low informal hedging and as a specimen evergreen for borders and formal gardens. For best effect plant it by doors and paths, where it's delightful scent can be fully appreciated.


BOTANICAL INFORMATION:

Family: Lamiaceae
Genus: Lavandula
Species: Angustifolia
Synonym: Lavender Vera
Common Name: True English Lavender, Fine Lavender
Hardiness: Hardy Perennial
Flowers: Mid to late Spring
Foliage: Evergreen, narrow grey-green leaves
Height: 30 to 45cm (12 to 18in)
Spread: 45 to 60cm (18 to 24in)
Position: Prefers Full Sun, Sheltered
Soil: Well-drained/light, Chalky/alkaline, Dry, Sandy
Germination: 21 to 90 Days
Notes: Herb, Evergreen Shrub (Hardy)

GERMINATION:

Late winter to late spring (February to April) or sow in late summer to autumn (August to Oct)
Lavender can be sown at anytime of year but prefers the ground temperature to be around 13 to 18°C (55 to 65°F). Sow seed on the surface of a well drained, seed compost in pots or trays. Cover seed with a light sprinkling of compost or vermiculite. Keep at a temperature of between 15 to 20°C (59 to 68°F). Germination in 21 to 90 days.
When large enough to handle, transplant seedlings into 7.5cm (3in) pots. Acclimatize to outdoor conditions for 10 to 15 days before planting out after all risk of frost, 45cm (18in) apart. For best results, provide any ordinary, well-drained soil in full sun.

Prepare a planting mix with the sand, soil and vermicompost=>Sprinkle diluted fungicide water (2gm in 1 liter water) after sowing the seeds. Make a hole in the potting mix with your finger=>Insert each seed in a hole as 1/3=>Place the planted pots or flats in a warm, above 60ºF (15.5ºC), sunny place=>too wet is quite dangerous for the seeds so keep the potting soil moist but not too wet until the seeds emerge, which should be in about 21 days=>cover the mixture with poly bag=> after 21 days  you can remove the plastic.

COLD GERMINATION:

1. Put seeds into 40° C water for 24 hours.
2. Put seeds into very wet sands or coco pit then it must be able to retain the moisture and to circulate the oxygen for germination. ( Generally it take more than 40 days. )
3. Move it into soil after it sprouts.
4. Germination temperature: 20-25℃
5. Germination time: 40 days
6. Growth optimum temperature: 10-25 ℃
7. Spacing: 20 * 20cm
8. Rose on soil not ask for much, just with some humus soil aggregate 

CULTIVATION:

Lavenders do best in moderately fertile, well-drained, alkaline soils in full sun. Once established they thrive on poor, dry, stony soils, but do not tolerate water logging. In poorly-drained soils plant on a mound or, in the case of hedging, on a ridge which will keep the base of the plants out of saturated soil. On heavier soils consider adding large quantities of gravel to improve drainage. It will grow in slightly acid soils.
Adequate spacing is essential to provide good air circulation. For informal plantings allow up to 90cm (36in). Where grown as a hedge, plant about 30cm (12in) apart or 45cm (18in) apart for taller cultivars. Prune back to encourage bushy growth. Although lavenders are drought-tolerant, they need watering until established. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers.
Lavenders grow well in containers but are deep rooted and need large pots with a diameter of 30 to 45cm (12 to 18in). Use a loam-based compost such as John Innes No. 3 with added coarse grit for drainage and a controlled-release fertilizer. Plants will need regular watering in summer, but should be kept on the dry side over winter.

PRUNING:

Lavenders should be pruned every year to keep them in a tidy shrub form. Pruning or trimming should be done each year in late summer, as soon as the blooms have faded, so that the bushes have time to make a little new growth before winter. On established plants use secateurs to remove flower stalks and about 2.5cm (1in) of the current year’s growth, making sure that some green growth remains. Hard pruning is sometimes done in April, but this means the loss of a season’s flowers.

HARVESTING:

Harvesting Lavender is one of the most enjoyable pleasures any gardener can have. Lavender flower heads look grey before the flowers open. Cut lavender stems when the lowest blossom opens. Make the cut slightly above the first set of leaves leaving a stem length suitable for a vase or whatever flower arrangement you choose. The color will be more vivid when dried.

Cut the flower stems during the cool of the morning after the dew has dried. The fragrance is the strongest then, and the blossoms will keep most of the perfume oils present, even when dried. Keep cutting blooming stems to encourage more growth. Plants can flower up to three times during a summer.

Tie the stems in small bunches and hang upside down in a warm dark place for the deepest colour and to prevent them from bending. More essential oils will be retained, too. Use a dark, dry, airy room for fast drying. It will take about a week for the flowers to completely dry.

Banks and Slopes, City/Courtyard Gardens, Coastal, Cottage/Informal Garden, Drought Resistant, Flowers Borders and Beds, Garden Edging, Gravel Garden, Mediterranean, Patio/Container Plants, Rock Garden or Wildlife Gardens.
Aromatherapy, Culinary uses, Companion Plant and Insect repellent.

COMPANION PLANTS:

The scent of lavender repels fleas and moths can protect nearby plants from insects such as whitefly. While flowering it nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Lavender planted under and near to fruit trees can deter coding moth.

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